Skip to main content

2017, time to rebuild

so, 2016 was an interesting year (interesting does not always mean good) for me as a beekeeper. I went into the season with two viable colonies and ended the season with four. We harvested about seventy pounds (thirty-two kg) of honey, almost all from one colony. Throughout the entire season I expressed my concerns and doubts regarding the varroa destructor situation. My colonies seemed to be plagued by them, and I wasn't ever able to really keep the numbers manageable. In the end, that cost me dearly. Since November, three of four colonies have perished as a result of varroa destructor. My cash-cow colony also succumbed to those little bastards! The fourth colony, which is actually the artificial swarm I created in July, seems to be holding steady (fingers crossed and praying), but they had less than desirable numbers heading into winter.

Now, it seems, that 2017 will be a rebuilding year. This happens to everyone who is in the beekeeping game, or at least I have heard. Honeybees die. Its a harsh fact of nature, but I can't let that fact get me down. First thing on the plan: get more bees. Luckily, a cousin of my wife, is also a hobby beekeeper, and his network into the local beek community is a bit deeper than mine. This past weekend, I paid him a visit (credit to my wife for suggesting the meeting) and explained my situation. He was more than understanding and he told me he knew a couple of people who may be able to unload a couple colonies come March. In fact, he called an older beek that afternoon and confirmed what he said. So, looks like I will have some reinforcements.

Second, I need to figure out how I want the season to go in general. Do I want to concentrate on honey, or on expansion. The benefit of buying, let's say four, fully functioning colonies, is that the lil' ladies will be out and about foraging almost immediately. That would give me possibly a harvest four times that of last year. Cha-ching! However, having said that, even the best colonies can get wiped out by varroa destructor (see my lament above). It would behoove me, to try to expand at the same time. How? Answer: brood nucs right away.

I've touched on this in the past. Brrod nucs are made, when you take out two or three frames of open brood, along with a frame of food, and place them in a different hive body, obviously making sure the queen is not on any of those frames. The bees that are transferred with the frames will quickly realize that they are without a queen, and will raise one of their own from the freshly laid eggs. Thereby effectively splitting the original colony into two small colonies. In theory, both will continue to grow in numbers, but the disadvantage is that both will not collect as much nectar and honey as the original. This isn't too bad as I plan to try to do this with two colonies. Buying four plus the one I already have and then splitting two of the four bought ones would give me seven colonies.

Third, is there anything I can do to fight off the varroa besides using formic acid? Yes and no. No, in that there are alternatives to formic acid vapor. Yes, in that, as of 2016 , it is now allowed to use Mite Away Quick Strips, a.k.a MAQS. This is a huge development. In previous years, formic acid vapor could only be used AFTER the harvest. The vapor permeates all cells, so if used when the honey chamber is still on, all the honey gets contaminated with formic acid. So it basically was a crap shoot to figure out when to harvest and when to treat. Also, formic acid vapor is dependent on weather (ambient temperature and humidity) whereas MAQS is usable regardless of weather. I am going to try this out as well as use drone frame trapping.

2017 needs to be a better year. If I am aggressive enough in battling varroa while expanding my apiary, I don't think I will need to write another blog entry like this one, for hopefully a long time.

Comments

Popular posts from this blog

Swarm season

This time of the year, the bees are really starting to bust out of the seams of their hives. Stronger colonies are in full swing, while weaker colonies are trying to build up their numbers to at least become stronger by seasons end. Curiously enough, both situations can also spark swarm behavior for both types of colonies,especially in Carniolans (Apis mellifera carnica). Carniolans have a higher tendency to swarm than, say, Italians or Buckfasts, so of course keeping Carniolans can be a bit tricky and nerve wracking. A few words about swarming. The act of swarming is a natural occurrence, and is necessary for the propagation of honey bees. Since the queen mates only once in her lifetime and each colony only has once queen at any given time, the ability to procreate depends on building a colony to a sizable amount and then by splitting the colony in two. Honey bees, of course, have a brilliant way of doing this. The first thing that needs to happen before a colony can swarm is they n...

Boosting a weaker nuc

Leia's colony is not as strong as the other two, so I acted on a tip from my beek mentor. He suggested I place a frame of capped brood from one of the stronger nucs into the weaker nuc. The reasoning behind it is that the weaker bees will get a slew of new bees within a few days that will help in strengthening the colony. It is important however, that all the bees that are sitting on the frame be brushed off before the move. Otherwise, we would end up with a lot of dead bees. I was a bit nervous to do this for two reasons. 1.) When you brush bees off a frame, they fly around in a cloud for a few minutes before they settle down and try to re-enter the hive. Since I generally do not work with a veil, I was worried some might get caught in my hair and sting me. 2.) I was afraid I might hurt the queen. Well, no bees got caught in my hair, in fact most of the bees that I knocked off / brushed off fell immediately into the hive, while the others flew directly to the bee house window....

Brood behavior

Honeybees know when to increase and decrease the amount of brood in the hive. Many factors contribute to this behavior; some natural, some man-made. The art of beekeeping often revolves around identifying and properly diagnosing problems. This past week, I was also faced with an interesting situation: a brood free colony. Now, as a beginner, it is sometimes difficult for me to understand what is really happening with the bees I tend after. Often times, during an inspection , I will see something and just say, "hmmm, that's interesting" without giving much of a second thought. Well, as I noticed that one of the colonies was free of brood, I mean completely barren of any signs of brood, I started thinking, "hmmm, this isnt so good" and I began to worry. A colony without brood cant survive very long. After all, the bees need to have a steady flow of new bees to keep up with the attrition. So now I was faced with a situation I hadn't observed before and I need...